泛醇-肉碱超分子低共熔物的制备及其护肤性能研究
Preparation and skincare properties of panthenol-carnitine supramolecular deep eutectic mixture
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摘要: 【目的】 改善传统泛醇制剂黏腻感强、肤感不佳的问题,提升其护肤功效与应用性能。【方法】 采用超分子技术对泛醇进行改性,以左旋肉碱为氢键受体,与D-泛醇构建超分子低共熔物——超分子泛醇;利用傅里叶变换红外光谱仪、核磁共振仪、差示量热仪对其结构进行表征,通过理论计算揭示分子间相互作用机制,利用流变仪测试体系剪切应力及黏度变化;结合转录组学分析与配方应用研究,明确其护肤性能。【结果】 成功制备超分子泛醇,其结构由多重氢键与静电作用协同维持;该体系黏度显著降低且剪切稀化行为明显;所得超分子泛醇可上调胶原蛋白合成及细胞能量代谢相关基因表达,同时抑制炎症因子表达;将其应用于精华液配方后,产品黏腻感明显改善,同时兼具保湿、皮肤屏障修护、舒缓抗炎、抗皱、紧致肌肤等多重护肤功效。【结论】 基于超分子技术的改性策略可显著改善传统泛醇制剂肤感,所得超分子泛醇在功能性护肤成分开发方面具有良好的应用潜力。Abstract: 【Objective】 This study aimed to alleviate the marked greasiness and poor skin feel of conventional panthenol formulations and to enhance their skincare efficacy and application performance.【Methods】 A supramolecular modification strategy was employed to modify panthenol. Using L-carnitine as the hydrogen bond acceptor, a supramolecular deep eutectic solvent (DES), designated as supramolecular panthenol, was constructed with D-panthenol. Its structure was characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (1H NMR), and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Theoretical calculations were performed to elucidate the intermolecular interaction mechanism, and rheological tests were conducted to evaluate the shear stress and viscosity changes of the system. Transcriptomic analysis and formulation application studies were further carried out to clarify its skincare performance.【Results】 The supramolecular panthenol was successfully prepared, and its structure was synergistically maintained by multiple hydrogen bonds and electrostatic interactions. The system exhibited significantly reduced viscosity and pronounced shear-thinning behavior. The supramolecular panthenol upregulated the expression of genes involved in collagen synthesis and cellular energy metabolism while inhibiting the expression of inflammatory factors. When formulated into an essence product, it markedly reduced greasiness and delivered multiple skincare benefits, including moisturization, skin barrier repair, soothing and anti-inflammatory effects, anti-wrinkle efficacy, and skin firming.【Conclusion】 The supramolecular modification strategy can significantly improve the skin feel of conventional panthenol preparations, and the result ing supramolecular panthenol holds considerable promise for the development of functional skincare ingredients.
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Key words:
- D-panthenol /
- L-carnitine /
- supramolecular deep eutectic mixture /
- skincare property
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