泛醇-肉碱超分子低共熔物的制备及护肤性能研究
Preparation and skin care performance of panthenol-carnitine supramolecular deep eutectic mixture
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摘要: 【目的】针对传统泛醇制剂黏腻感强、肤感不佳的问题,采用超分子技术对其改性并探究改性后护肤效果,以提升应用性能与使用体验。【方法】以左旋肉碱为氢键受体,与D-泛醇构建超分子低共熔物,借助傅里叶红外光谱仪、核磁共振氢谱仪和差示量热仪表征其结构,通过理论计算揭示分子间相互作用机制,利用流变学测试评价剪切应力及黏度变化,进一步结合转录组学分析与配方应用研究,明确护肤性能。【结果】成功制备泛醇-肉碱低共熔物,其超分子结构由多重氢键与静电作用协同维持;体系黏度显著降低且剪切稀化行为明显,有效改善了黏腻肤感;该低共熔物可上调胶原蛋白合成、细胞能量代谢相关基因,同时抑制炎症因子表达。【结论】超分子技术可显著改善传统泛醇制剂肤感,所得超分子泛醇-肉碱低共熔物具备明确的抗皱与抗炎活性。Abstract: [Objective] Aiming at the problems of strong greasiness and poor skin feel of traditional panthenol preparations, supramolecular technology was adopted to modify panthenol, and the skin care efficacy of the modified product was investigated, so as to improve its application performance and user experience. [Methods] L-carnitine was used as the hydrogen bond acceptor to construct a supramolecular deep eutectic solvent (DES) with D-panthenol. The structure of the DES was characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and differential scanning calorimetry. Theoretical calculations were performed to reveal the intermolecular interaction mechanism, and rheological tests were carried out to evaluate the changes in shear stress and viscosity. Furthermore, transcriptomic analysis combined with formulation application research was conducted to clarify the skin care properties. [Results] The panthenol-carnitine deep eutectic solvent was successfully prepared, and its supramolecular structure was synergistically stabilized by multiple hydrogen bonds and electrostatic interactions. The viscosity of the system was significantly reduced with an obvious shear-thinning behavior, which effectively improved the greasy skin feel. Transcriptomic analysis showed that the deep eutectic solvent could up-regulate the expression of genes related to collagen synthesis and cellular energy metabolism, while inhibiting the expression of inflammatory factors. [Conclusion] Supramolecular technology significantly optimizes the skin feel of traditional panthenol preparations, and the modified panthenol exhibits definite anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory activities.
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Key words:
- D-panthenol /
- L-carnitine /
- supramolecule /
- skin care performance
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